Bakuchiol vs Retinol: What the One Head-to-Head Trial Measured

Bakuchiol vs retinol rests on one small head-to-head trial: 44 adults, 12 weeks, 0.5 percent of each. Both groups improved on photo analysis of wrinkles and pigment, with no statistical difference between them. Retinol still has far more evidence behind it. This guide covers what that trial measured, who ran it, what else is known about bakuchiol, and how to choose between them.

What is bakuchiol, and why is it compared with retinol?

Bakuchiol is a plant compound from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia. Chemically it looks nothing like a retinoid. The comparison comes from a 2014 lab study in which bakuchiol produced gene expression changes in a skin model that were broadly similar to retinol's. The first author worked for Sytheon, a company. The same paper added a 12-week case study of a finished product, with no control group described.

Retinol is a form of vitamin A. In skin, it is converted to retinoic acid, the form that regulates gene expression. Tretinoin is prescription retinoic acid, while retinol is sold over the counter in many products. Our retinol guide for beginners covers strengths and schedules.

So the "retinol alternative" idea rests first on a lab finding about gene activity, and only second on results measured on faces.

Bakuchiol vs retinol at a glance

	Bakuchiol	Retinol
What it is	A plant compound from Psoralea corylifolia	A form of vitamin A, converted in skin to retinoic acid
In the head-to-head trial	0.5 percent twice daily, 21 people, 12 weeks	0.5 percent once daily, 23 people, 12 weeks
Wider evidence	Seven clinical studies by 2022, graded C in a 2024 review	Older vehicle-controlled trials, graded A in the same review
Main complaint	Allergy case reports; less irritation reported in one trial	Irritation, especially when started too fast
Stability	Not established in the sources we reviewed	Breaks down with light and heat in many products

Bakuchiol vs retinol: what the head-to-head trial measured

The trial, published in 2019, randomized 44 people to 0.5 percent bakuchiol cream twice daily or 0.5 percent retinol cream daily for 12 weeks, and it was double blind. High-resolution facial photos were analyzed at 0, 4, 8 and 12 weeks. A dermatologist who did not know the group assignments graded pigmentation and redness, and participants answered questions about side effects.

The published result: both creams significantly reduced wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistical difference between them. Retinol users reported more scaling and stinging.

The trial's registry entry adds detail. It lists 21 people on bakuchiol and 23 on retinol, all of whom finished, aged 30 to 55. The posted wrinkle result was a 19.0 percent reduction in fine wrinkles with bakuchiol, and 23.2 percent with retinol. A change in pigment appearance was recorded in 59 percent of the bakuchiol group and 44 percent of the retinol group.

One detail does not fit. The registry reports zero adverse events and zero reports of stinging, burning or itching in either group. That is hard to square with the published statement about retinol, and we could not resolve the difference.

Who ran it, and what it cannot tell you

The registry names the University of California, Davis as the sponsor, with no industry collaborator listed. The limits are the ones you would expect from a study this size.

• Small. With 44 people, "no statistical difference" is not proof that the two are equal.
• No placebo group. Some improvement in both groups could come from the cream base, the season or simply taking part.
• Unequal dosing. Bakuchiol went on twice a day, retinol once.
• Short. Twelve weeks says nothing about longer use.

A 2020 commentary noted that makers use clinical trial data to support anti-aging claims for bakuchiol, and it appraised those trials critically. It is worth reading any "clinically comparable to retinol" line on a label with that in mind.

What else is known about bakuchiol?

• The overall evidence is small. A 2022 systematic review found 30 articles on bakuchiol in skin. Only seven were clinical studies, and 16 were preclinical.
• Other trials lack controls. A 4-week study of 60 women with sensitive skin found a bakuchiol cleanser and moisturizer well tolerated, but it had no comparison group.
• Acne data come from a mixture. In a 2-month trial of 111 people using adapalene gel, adding a cream with bakuchiol, ginkgo extract and mannitol improved inflammatory lesions more than a vehicle cream. Three of the four authors worked for Laboratoire Bioderma, and the mixture makes bakuchiol's own share unknowable.
• Company studies continue. A 2025 study of 34 people with sensitive skin tested a serum pairing bakuchiol with a plant extract for 28 days. Its authors work for a cosmetics company, and the abstract describes no comparison group.
• More data may be coming. A vehicle-controlled study of bakuchiol on post-inflammatory marks is listed as completed, with no results posted yet.
• Allergy is possible. Contact dermatitis has been reported in case reports, one of which calls bakuchiol a new allergen in cosmetics. The 2022 review also counted one reported case.
• The evidence grade is modest. A 2024 systematic review of anti-aging cosmeceuticals gave retinol and vitamin C grade A recommendations, and bakuchiol grade C.

What does the retinol evidence look like?

Retinol's case is older and broader, though not limitless. In a 24-week trial in 36 elderly people, with a mean age of 87, study staff applied 0.4 percent retinol lotion to one arm up to three times a week. It improved fine wrinkling compared with vehicle on the other arm. Biopsies in small subgroups showed more glycosaminoglycans and procollagen. Bakuchiol's vehicle-controlled data are thinner. In a 2022 paper written mostly by Beiersdorf researchers, a 4-week split-face comparison with vehicle reported a rise in fibronectin, a skin protein. A 28-day study of brown marks against vehicle was not randomized, and bakuchiol's advantage was significant only on marks created for the test.

Retinol has a practical weakness: it breaks down. A study of 12 commercial products found retinoid losses of 0 to 80 percent after 6 months at 25°C, with light doing more damage than heat. Some products held less retinoid than their labels declared. Opaque, airtight packaging is worth looking for with any retinol.

Irritation, sun, and when to ask a doctor

Retinol's main cost is irritation. The AAD relays a dermatologist's advice to begin with the least-intense formula, every other night, and build up slowly. It advises using retinoids at night with sun protection by day. It also warns that on darker skin, irritation can trigger dark marks.

Bakuchiol appears gentler in the one comparison, with the registry caveat above. It is not free of risk, as the allergy reports show. Patch test either one before using it on your whole face. Our guide to patch testing shows where and for how long.

If you are pregnant, trying to become pregnant, or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before using either.

What should you look for on the label?

• A stated strength. The head-to-head trial used 0.5 percent of each. US rules require ingredients to be listed in order of predominance, not with amounts, so a product that names no strength leaves you guessing.
• For retinol, protective packaging. Opaque, airtight containers limit the light and air that break retinoids down.
• For bakuchiol, claims that match the evidence. "Works like retinol" is a comparison with one 44-person trial at a specific dose and schedule. A product at an unstated strength cannot borrow that result.
• For combinations, a plan. If a product holds both, you will not know which one caused a reaction. Start slowly.

Which should you choose?

• You tolerate retinol. It has the stronger evidence. There is little reason to switch.
• Retinol irritates you. First try a lower strength, less often, as the AAD suggests. Bakuchiol is a reasonable alternative with far less evidence behind it.
• You want both. Some products combine them. We found no controlled trial testing the combination against either one alone. How retinol fits with other actives is covered in niacinamide and retinol and peptides vs retinol.
• Either way. Neither replaces daily sunscreen.

A bakuchiol serum is not worth a premium on the strength of the "retinol alternative" label alone. The head-to-head evidence is one trial of 44 people. Buy it if retinol does not suit you, and judge it on your own skin over about three months.

Frequently asked questions

Is bakuchiol as effective as retinol?

One 12-week trial of 44 people found no statistical difference on photo measures of wrinkles and pigment. That is too small to show the two are equal, and the trial had no placebo group. Retinol has far more evidence behind it.

Is bakuchiol gentler than retinol?

Probably, but the evidence is thin. The published trial reported more scaling and stinging with retinol, while its registry entry lists no adverse events in either group. Allergic reactions to bakuchiol have been reported, so patch test it first.

Can I use bakuchiol and retinol together?

Some products combine them, and we found no report of a harmful interaction. We also found no controlled trial showing that the pair beats either one alone. Add one product at a time so any reaction has an obvious cause.

Does bakuchiol help acne?

The main trial added a cream with bakuchiol, ginkgo extract and mannitol to adapalene gel in 111 people for 2 months, and it beat a vehicle cream on inflammatory lesions. Three of the four authors worked for Laboratoire Bioderma, and the cream held three actives. Bakuchiol's own effect on acne is not established.

Is bakuchiol a retinoid?

No. It is a plant compound from Psoralea corylifolia, and chemically it looks nothing like a retinoid. The retinol comparison comes from a 2014 lab study in which it changed gene activity in a skin model much as retinol did. The first author of that study worked for Sytheon, a company.

How long should I try bakuchiol before judging it?

The head-to-head trial measured results at 4, 8 and 12 weeks. Give it about 12 weeks of steady use with daily sunscreen, and compare photos taken in the same light.